fried shrimp with chili and lime leaf
from Vatch's Thai Street Food
AKA chu chee gung
2 TBSP vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 TBSP red curry paste
2 TBSP stock
16 extra large shrimp (31-40 count)
2 TBSP fish sauce
1 TBSP sugar
1 TBSP lemon juice
2 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped
1 long red chili, finely slivered
Heat oil in wok or frying pan, add the garlic, and fry until golden brown. Stir in the curry paste and cook together for a few seconds. Add the stock and mix thoroughly. Toss in the shrimp and stir-fry for a few seconds until opaque.
Add the fish sauce, sugar, lemon juice, lime leaves, and chili, stirring after each addition. Cook together for 2-3 seconds, then turn onto a serving dish. The dish should be quite dry.
Notes: The original recipe calls for 6-8 king tiger shrimp, so I estimated based on number per pound sizes. Other than that, this recipe was served as above, and it was H.O.T. -- Very Spicy. I think if I make it in the future, I might actually take the chili paste back to 3/4 TBSP and only use half the red chili pepper. Served with spinach vermicelli.
Middle-Eastern Meatloaf Roll
I was never a fan of meatloaf despite its regular appearance as a staple meal while I was growing up (sorry, mom). The tomato paste or ketchup sauce congealed in an unappealing way and the texture of the loaf itself was often mealy and heavy. I don't think that was mom's fault. I had it at a variety of church potlucks and friends' homes as well and it never became a sought-after meal for me.
So, when I saw the challenge for Recipe Remix for April, in which participants were invited to take an old standby recipe from their list and attempt to apply some creativity, I decided it was time to take advantage of how my own cooking skills have developed over the last few years and also of my food interests that now range into various ethnic cuisines that I never sampled as a child. And, so, I present a new and original recipe: Middle-Eastern Meatloaf, garnered from the review and use of types of kibbeh and other similar dishes.
Photo by: Michael Curry
Middle-Eastern Meatloaf Roll
a Jennifer original
Meat:
1/3 cup bulgur, rinsed in cold water
1 lb. Ground lamb
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 shallots, diced small
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
salt, pepper to taste
Filling:
4 oz wilted baby spinach
1/3 cup pine nuts
3 oz. Feta cheese, crumbled
Mix all ingredients for meat mixture together. If possible, do one hour before baking and allow flavors to meld.
Saute the spinach in a non-stick pan with a splash of olive oil. Spread meat on sheet of foil in large rectangle, about 1/2 inch thick. Cover the surface with the pine nuts, then feta, then spinach, and use the foil to roll like a roulade or jelly roll. Brush the top with melted butter. Bake it on a broiler pan at 350 until thermometer reads 160 degrees F, about 55 minutes. Let set 10 minutes before slicing and serving with yogurt sauce.
Yogurt Sauce:
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tsp lemon juice
1/4 tsp allspice
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 TBSP water
Combine all ingredients in bowl. Mix well. Can be done 4 hours ahead.
Notes: There were actually three versions of the yogurt sauce: (1) with 2 TBSP tahini paste, which did not work, and then (2) as above, but without the allspice, which was fine but needed something else, and so (3) the choice above came to be. I liked the seasoning of the meatloaf as well as the filling. Will very likely make this again sometime.
For years I have had to order my Penzeys online and wait days and days for their arrival. But the Hartford Courant reported on April 3rd that Penzeys, my fave spice supplier, has opened up a store just 40 minutes from my door at 24 LaSalle Road.
See: Hartford Courant article.
My kitchen rejoices even though my wallet may not....
Pan-Grilled Duck Breast with Mushrooms, Dried Apricots and Almonds
from The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen: Recipes for the Passionate Cook
1/2 pound fresh trumpet mushrooms, quartered
1 boneless duck breast
coarse salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 TBSP butter
1 cup chicken stock
1/3 cup diced dried apricots
1 large shallot, chopped
1 TBSP lemon juice
15 whole blanched almonds
1 TBSP minced fresh chives
About 1 hour before serving, rinse duck breast and pat dry. Trim of excess fat. Score the skin in a cross-hatch pattern without piercing the flesh. Sprinkle the fat side generously with salt and half the pepper. Cover loosely with plastic wrap.
Set a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tsp of butter and duck breast, flesh side down, and sear well, about 2 minutes. Add 2 TBSP stock to deglaze the pan and boil until thick. Turn the duck over, reduce the heat to medium-low and slowly cook the duck breast, fat side down, without turning, for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large straight-sided skillet set over medium-high heat, sear the mushrooms, stirring until you hear them squeak, about 30 seconds. Add the apricots, shallots and remaining butter and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add half the stock and simmer until mushrooms are just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Turn the duck breast over and finish cooking on the flesh side. To test for doneness, use your thumb and finger to pinch the flesh. If it springs back quickly, it is rare. Remove to side dish, cover with foil, and allow to rest at least 5 minutes. [Note: For rare this took about an additional 7 minutes.]
Pour off all the fat from the pan. Deglaze with the remaining stock. Scrape the mushroom mixture into the pan and bring to a boil. Heighten the flavor with the lemon juice and correct seasoning, if desired. Fold in the almonds and chives. Serve at once with duck.
Notes: The original recipe called for chanterelles but I ended up with royal trumpet mushrooms because they were fresh instead of dried. Other wild mushrooms that were recommended included oyster or porcini. The trumpet mushrooms were much larger, so had to be quartered prior to cooking. The directions for the chanterelles includes: cleaning them early in the day by dropping into boiling salted water for 2 to 3 seconds and then dipping into cold water before draining, wrapping in paper towels and stashing in the 'fridge. I took none of those steps with regard to the trumpet mushrooms.
Also, I felt the salt was over-pronounced in the dish and would likely use it only sparingly in the initial seasoning if I were to make this in the future, which I probably will because it was quite good.
State Street in Madison boasts a number of restaurants and boutique shops. From the university to the capitol building is a bare 1/2 mile. Among others is a new tapas restaurant called Icon. Two colleagues and I relaxed there at the start of a conference and shared a number of dishes between us. Our choices were:
* Roasted Eggplant Salad with Tomatoes, Scallions and Red Onions
* Imported Cured Spanish Meats with Shaved Manchego
* Baked Goat Cheese with Tomato Sauce and Toasted Garlic Bread
* Jamon Wrapped Sea Scallops
* Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with pickled vegetables and piquillo mustard
* Rioja Braised Short Ribs with Manchego Mashed Potatoes
I admit my favorite was the goat cheese dish, but I have a thing for it so I wasn't surprised. The eggplant I tried on a dare, essentially, having had eggplant parmesan some years ago and concluded I didn't like the vegetable. Given the seasoning, I can't conclude whether I like eggplant or not. The short ribs were perfectly cooked and amazingly tender -- can't recommend them enough. Admittedly we ordered the cured spanish meat dish in order to get the shaved manchego but we certainly weren't disappointed.
I also tried the Osborne Solaz Tempranillo and it was a great match for these dishes: Intensely fruity with deep aromas of ripe raspberry and black cassis subtly highlighted by notes of leather and peppery spice. A finely structured full-bodied wine showing lots of fruit. It is both elegant and complex with a lengthy finish.
Located at 41 Madison Ave, A Voce is a trendy Italian mid-town restaurant. The decor is contemporary and the mid-day hustle was apparent.
I started with "Crostini alla Toscano," a mixture of chicken liver, foie gras, and moscato d'asti, served with garlic toast. The texture of the pate was lovely and the taste was evocative.
For my main entree, I had farfalle with lamb bolognese and sheep's milk ricotta. I was less impressed with this dish. The pasta had an odd texture. And the lamb was somewhat bland. If it had more cheese that may have helped as it was quite good. Overall, just not great, though. And I was disappointed since I had wanted to try this restaurant for a while.
I had hoped to try the cheese plate for dessert but wasn't afforded enough time. Perhaps I'll give the place one more shot in order to fit that in and try a different entree.
Kouneli Stifado AKA Molyvos Rabbit Stifado
Rabbit Stew with Pearl Onions in a Two-Wine Sauce
From: The Foods of the Greek Islands by Aglaia Kremezi
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Stifado, which has its origins on Corfu, is an intensely flavored stew, usually of rabbit or hare, cooked slowly in both sweet and dry red wine with tomatoes and pearl onions. Seasoned with bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves and allspice, the fragrant stew can be served over homemade egg noodles, fettuccine or tagliatelle.
This recipe is adapted from Jim Botsacos's version of the classic dish.
1 3 1/2-to-4-pound rabbit, cut into 4 leg/thigh joints and
the loin, with the loin tied (have the butcher do this,
or purchase the rabbit in pieces from a specialty market)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups sliced red onions
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 1/2 cups dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
1 cup sweet red wine, such as Mavrodaphne or sweet Marsala,
or more if needed
1 16-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped
2 cups Chicken Stock (page 267) [which says main difference
is that it uses bay leaves rather than celery]
Bouquet Garni: 1 bay leaf, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 cloves, 1
allspice berry, tied in a piece of cheesecloth with
kitchen twine
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1 pound pearl onions, blanched and peeled, or 1 1/2 cups frozen
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water
For optional garnish:
Olive oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2-3 tablespoons diced and drained tomatoes
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Season the rabbit pieces on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven and cook the rabbit, in batches if necessary, over medium-high heat, turning frequently, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer the rabbit to a platter and discard the oil.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pot, reduce the heat to medium and saute the red onions until wilted and lightly colored, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for 2 minutes. Pour in both wines and boil over medium-high heat until almost all the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes.
Add the chopped tomatoes to the pot and stir to combine, then return the rabbit to the pot with any juices from the platter, pour in the stock and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the bouguet garni and bring to a boil. Cover, place the pot in the oven and bake for 35 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt 1 teaspoon of butter in a medium skillet, add the pearl onions, sprinkle with sugar and saute, over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the onions are golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes. Add the water and cook for 10 minutes, or until the onions are easily pierced with a knife. Remove from the heat.
Add the onions to the Dutch oven, and cook for 30 minutes more, or until the rabbit is tender when pierced with a fork. Transfer the rabbit to a warm serving platter.
Discard the bouquet garni and bring the cooking juices to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the remaining 1 teaspoon butter. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding salt, pepper and/or a little more sweet wine if necessary. Ladle the sauce over the rabbit and serve.
For the garnish, if using: In a small skillet, heat about 1 inch of oil until it shimmers. Add the sliced onion and fry until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Garnish the rabbit with the crispy onion rings and diced tomatoes.
And for dessert -- cupcakes with sprinkles!
Pork Carnitas
from Kitchen & Cook, July/August 2006
3 lbs pork shoulder, skin and bone removed
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 medium white onion, medium dice
2 tsp ancho chile powder
Cut the meat, with the fat, into 1-in cubes. Barely cover the meat with water in a heavy, wide pan. Add the salt, cumin, and half the cilantro; bring to a boil, uncovered. Lower to a simmer and cook undisturbed, until all the water has evaporated and meat is tender, but not falling apart, about 1 hour.
Lower heat and cook to render the fat, adding a few drops of oil, if necessary to get it started, keeping the fattiest parts of the meat near the bottom of the pot. Keep turning the meat until it is lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Some will stick to the bottom. Stir in the onions garlic, and chile powder, trying not to break up the meat too much.
Deglaze with 1/4 cup cold water. Cook for a few minutes more, stirring occasionally and scraping up any browned bits.
Can be made 5 days in advance.
Notes: I took the advice of this much-lamented newsletter of the Culinary Institute of America (I curse the day they discontinued my subscription) and used this as a filling with grilled tortillas (right on the stove burner) with tomatoes and cheese and fresh cilantro. OMG - good.
Pan-Cooked Quail, Vietnamese Style (Before)
from the New York Times, October 18, 2006
8 quail
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon or more freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup lime juice or rice vinegar
1/2 cup nam pla or soy sauce
4 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn
Chopped fresh cilantro, mint or Thai basil leaves (or a combination), optional
Lime wedges, optional.
1. Cut along each side of breastbone of each bird, then straight down through where thigh meets body to get 2 semi-boneless halves from each bird. (Don't worry if skin holding thigh and drumstick together separates.) Combine other ingredients except oil, herb and lime wedges and marinate for at least an hour, or overnight in a refrigerator, if you have time.
2. Drain quail of marinade and strain and reserve marinade. Pat birds dry. If you have a skillet large enough to hold quail in one layer, put oil in it; if not, put 2 tablespoons of oil in each of two skillets. Turn heat to high and, when oil is hot, saute quail, skin-side down, until nicely browned, about 4 minutes. Turn and brown other side for 2 or 3 minutes, or until quail are cooked through. Remove to a platter and keep warm.
3. Lower heat and remove any excess fat from skillet (there may not be any). Add strained marinade, along with 1/4 cup water, and raise heat to high. Cook, stirring and scraping any browned bits from bottom of pan, until liquid is reduced to about 1/4 cup. Spoon over quail and serve immediately, garnished, if you like, with herbs and lime.
Yield: 4 servings.
Pan-Cooked Quail, Vietnamese Style (After)
Notes: As you can see from the "after" picture, these were rended and devoured. Leftovers are good too. And since I didn't have fresh herbs on hand this time of year, I added about 1 tsp of dried cilantro leaves to the marinade. This had a very savory flavor which I most enjoyed.
Tom Yum Goong
adapted from a recipe courtesy of A Suitable Spice
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 cup water
2 TBSP dried lemongrass
5 kaffir lime leaves
1/2 TBSP fresh ginger, sliced
2 Thai red or green chilies, sliced
1 TBSP fish sauce, such as nam pla
3/4 tsp sugar (optional)
4-ounces canned straw mushrooms, rinsed
1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled with tails on
1 lime, juiced
1/2 handful fresh cilantro, chopped
Bring the stock and water to the boil over medium heat in a saucepan. Add the lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, and chiles. Lower the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes to let the spices infuse the broth. For convenience, I remove the lemongrass and lime leaves from the liquid before adding the shrimp. Authentic versions of the soup leave them in, you are expected to avoid eating them in your soup bowl.
Uncover and add the fish sauce and sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes. Toss in the shrimp and cook on very low heat (so the shrimp stay tender and juicy) for about 8 minutes until they turn pink. Remove from the heat and add the lime juice, green onions, mushrooms and cilantro. Taste for salt and spices; you should have an equal balance of spicy, salty, and sour. Keep tasting and adjusting with salt, fresh lime juice and if its not hot enough, one or two finely minced green chillies. Serve hot.
Notes: I also consulted Thai Food
